What You Should Know:
Gabrielle Hamilton cooks a concise, constantly changing menu that includes familiar ingredients prepared in intriguing ways. The small and tightly crowded dining room might seem like a burden, but in the end, it somehow adds to the homely feel of the food.
What I Liked:
A monkfish liver arrives looking like a seared foie gras with crusty bread dipped drenched in butter.
Pieces of lamb neck and shoulder are cooked until tender, but not soggy, and served with beans and an aromatic stew-like sauce.
An undeniably sweet orange is candied in simply syrup and served whole.
Is It Worth It:
The appetizer and entrée portions tend to be fairly large and shareable, and justify the prices well.